Otak-Otak in Malaysia: Muar's Grilled Sticks vs Penang's Steamed Nyonya Parcels

Otak-otak means "little brains", and Malaysia makes it two very different ways. Muar grills a spicy fish paste in nipah palm leaves; Penang's Nyonya kitchens steam a soft fish custard in banana leaf over daun kaduk. Here is how to tell them apart.