Kuching is one of the easiest cities in Malaysia to walk. The old centre is compact, the river gives you a natural line to follow, and the heritage buildings sit close together. In a single morning you can cover the oldest street in the city, a Brooke-era courthouse, one of the country's biggest museums and a fort on the far bank.
Here is a route that works, in an order that keeps the heat in mind.
Before you start
- Start early. Kuching is hot and humid by late morning. Aim to be on Main Bazaar by 8am.
- Wear proper shoes. Pavements are uneven in places.
- Check the museum's hours. The Borneo Cultures Museum has been listed as open Tuesday to Sunday, 9am to 4:45pm, so it is closed on Mondays.
- Allow half a day, longer if you are a museum person.
1. Main Bazaar and Carpenter Street
Begin on Main Bazaar, Kuching's oldest street, a row of traditional shophouses facing the river. It runs roughly from the Tua Pek Kong temple at one end to the Old Courthouse at the other, which makes it a natural spine for the walk.
The shops here are the place for Sarawak handicrafts: beadwork, woven baskets, pua kumbu textiles, carvings and pepper. Prices vary a lot, so look in a few before buying.
One street back, Carpenter Street is narrower and more local, with older shophouses, small temples, kopitiam and hardware shops. It is the best place for breakfast before the walk gets going.
2. Tua Pek Kong temple
At the eastern end of Main Bazaar, the Tua Pek Kong temple is one of Kuching's oldest Chinese temples and a landmark at the junction by the river. Visitors are welcome; dress modestly and be quiet around worshippers.
3. The Old Courthouse
Walk west along Main Bazaar to the Old Courthouse. It was commissioned by Charles Brooke, the second White Rajah of Sarawak, in 1868 and completed in 1874, and it was the seat of Brooke government for decades. Its verandas and colonnades are a good example of the colonial style built for the tropics, with deep shade and high ceilings.
The complex has been adapted for new uses, and it is worth stepping inside for the courtyard and the cool.
4. The Borneo Cultures Museum
A short walk inland brings you to the Borneo Cultures Museum, Kuching's flagship museum, spread across five levels and often described as one of the largest museums in Malaysia.
This is the stop to budget time for. It covers Sarawak's peoples, crafts, natural history and history, and it gives context to everything else on the walk, from the textiles on Main Bazaar to the Brooke buildings by the river. Two hours is comfortable; a dedicated visitor could spend longer.
If it is hot by now, this is the right place to be in the middle of the day.
5. The waterfront and Fort Margherita
Head back down to the Kuching Waterfront, the long riverside promenade. Late afternoon is the best time, when it cools down and families come out.
From the waterfront you can see across the Sarawak River to Fort Margherita, built by the Brooke government and completed around 1879, and to the Astana, the white palace built for the Brookes and now the official residence of the Sarawak governor.
To get across, you can walk over the Darul Hana Bridge, the pedestrian bridge that links the two banks. Traditionally, people also crossed by small river boats, and some still run; ask on the waterfront.
Where to eat
Kuching is one of Malaysia's great food cities, and the walk passes plenty of options.
- Sarawak laksa for breakfast is close to compulsory. If you have only had it in KL, our guide to the best Sarawak laksa in the Klang Valley gives you something to compare against.
- Kolo mee is the other morning staple; here is our Klang Valley kolo mee guide for the same reason.
- Kek lapis, the layered cake, is sold all over the city and travels well as a gift.
Making a weekend of it
If you have more time, Kuching is a base for Bako National Park, Semenggoh's orangutans and the Sarawak Cultural Village, all of which need transport and a separate half day or more.
And if Borneo has got you thinking about the region's traditions, our pieces on the Melanau's tall longhouses and on Kaamatan and Gawai are good next reads. Flying in from the Peninsula? Read what West Malaysians get wrong about flying to Sarawak first.
FAQ
Can you walk around Kuching old town?
Yes. Main Bazaar, Carpenter Street, the Old Courthouse, the Borneo Cultures Museum and the waterfront are all within walking distance. Allow about half a day.
Is the Borneo Cultures Museum open on Mondays?
It has been listed as open Tuesday to Sunday, 9am to 4:45pm, so plan around a Monday closure and check before you go.
What is the oldest street in Kuching?
Main Bazaar, the row of traditional shophouses along the river, is Kuching's oldest street.
How do I get to Fort Margherita from the waterfront?
Cross the Sarawak River by the Darul Hana pedestrian bridge, or by a small river boat where they are running.
